Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Pick pocketing genius!

So when talking to the newbies in to Ghana I always warn them that they have to be careful of pick pockets. The Artful Dodger and Fagin's gang have nothing on the guys out here. They have some incredible techniques, as i mentioned in a previous post regarding the football stadium thieves. Obviously busy areas and clubs and any kind of event holds its risks.

I always mention that anyone needs to be careful on a Tro Tro. I have lost a phone and a camera over the years on a Tro Tro but today I saw an elaborate plan to steal. (I have been thinking about it ever since, I shouldn't be, but I am quite impressed with them!)

Right, here goes. I was with a volunteer, taking them to a placement. We were waiting for a Tro Tro and as we went to get on a gentleman said after you. As he said this a guy charged through to get on just in front of us. My volunteer sat in the middle seat between the guy that charged on and a random woman. I sat behind my volunteer and next to the guy that said 'after you'. (I hope your staying with me here!)

I can not remember an awful lot about the two men. The one next to me was not dressed badly. He had a pair of black shiny (quite smart) trainers on and was not dressed shabbily. The guy in front was dressed well to. Not in a suit but smart casual, maybe like the guys I used to go to the University of Ghana dress!

So when we came to pay the mate for our journey, the guy next to me passed his money to the row in front to give to the mate. Instead of passing it to the random lady who was closest to the mate, he passed it to the guy in front of me. (the one who had charged on!) who then passed it over to the mate. The mate gave him his change and he passed it back to the guy next to me. As he passed it he (accidentally?) dropped the two coins on the floor. (right at my feet)

I could see one of the coins so I picked it up and gave it to the guy. He then went about looking for the other coin. At one point he had his kneed dug into my leg. (which was a little painful) He was (i thought) looking around on the floor. I was focussing more on the fact that this guy was shoving his knee into my leg.

This is where I take the accolade of outsmarting the thief. (Although I was not quite sure if he was at this stage) I realised that the whole thing was a little strange, and this guy did not seem to be looking so hard. He had his bag right next to me and his hand was under the bag. The sneaky (f**k) was trying to sneak into my back pocket where my wallet was. He must have been looking at me for sometime before when I took my wallet out to prepare for the tro tro ride.

Anyway as I realised (kind of realised) that he was a little close for comfort and I put my hand on my back pocket, he sat up and said ' oh, I will just pick it up when you get off!' It was then my stop and I carefully slid passed the guy to get off. I was not quite sure if I was right of not at that stage so I did not make any accusations but after a little think I marveled at this thieving technique!

You should let me know if you know of any other techniques we need to watch out for!!

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Where is Yevu.... (in Ghana)

I have often wanted to provoke some kind of reaction to my blog, at least get a few comments here and there. The last blog about safety has certainly got some discussion flowing which is great but I need to point out that Yevu in Ghana is in Ghana and not anywhere else.

I guess it seems that a lot of my blogs come across as negative viewpoints on Ghana. I assure you that I enjoy being in Ghana and although I may write about some negative elements I also think, write and enjoy the positive elements of this country.

People hear a lot about Ghana and Ghanaians around the world are the first to be proud of their country. (and rightly so) But people do not really give a balanced view of what is happening here. I probably do the same when talking about the UK, although I know there an awful lot of negative things to discuss in my country. I remember a lecturer at the University of Ghana telling our Masters class that all white people are racist. I certainly had a little fight against this one, but it was her view from living in the states (and reading quotes written in the 1800's) that this was the case. (Although I don't think "all black people are lepers" is quite relevant in todays racist rhetoric!)

Anyway, this was not supposed to be a rant. Just purely to say that if you offended by the blog in anyway, I apologise. But it is Yevu in Ghana, and not Yevu anywhere in the world. I just write what I see and hear about however controversial the topic.

Monday, June 13, 2011

Ghana and Safety!

My job requires me to talk to young volunteers about safety issues in Ghana. It is the usual scare people about a new city speech, which is aimed at pushing these guys into being safe. I start with a little bit about pick pockets and how they are very clever here. They will get you on the Tro Tro, waiting for the Tro Tro, walking in busy areas and going into any event (such as a football match...story to follow). I then talk a little about going out in the evenings and not trusting everyone that comes up to you and guesses where your from and tries to be your 'friend'! I also let them know just to look out for each other and each others belongings and make sure people do not make any stupid friend choices.

Now the reason I start with this is because when living here (and not on a short visit) it is difficult to abide by these suggestions all the time. Definitely I have learnt my lesson whilst sitting on public transport, having lost a phone and a camera over the years whilst sitting on a tro tro. But when it comes to day to day normality sometimes you have to go out of your comfort zone.

The issues for me (and some others that I know) are that we can not always be out and about with a big group like the volunteers in Accra. They certainly have that comfort zone and there are always people to move with. For those of us living here, it is only one or two people we will be out with in the Evening and when and individual feels like leaving they may have to leave alone. Then there is the issue of taking a taxi alone in the night or deciding to walk if it is not to far away. (For us in Osu everything is walkable)

Now, recently I must admit I have become a little more intimidated by my own vulnerability in Ghana. Over the years I have always stuck out and I understand that my skin colour is certainly an advertisement for alleged wealth. People have always called out to me as they will for anyone that comes to visit or live here from outside. But recently it has been a little bit of a different feeling. I am hearing more and more stories from people about being robbed (not pick pocketed) when out and about in Accra. I am beginning to look at people with more suspicion when they approach me or try and be friendly with me. It is rather sad!

Not so long ago on Oxford Street (the Accra one!) I was walking along typing on my I-Phone and passed by 4 guys standing by a lamp post. It was one of Ghana's many holidays and not many people were around. It was weirdly quiet for the day. One guy started shouting at me.."hey.. hey.. hey" in a booming voice. I was pretty pissed off and almost stop to ask him what the hell he wanted but something in my told me 'no mate, carry on and just look over your shoulder'! So thats what I did he said "come here come here I like your phone!" I turned round and told him that my name isn't Hey so he should get out of here, and walked off very quickly. I am pretty sure that I have had stopped to talk to him I would not have my phone anymore. This is not the only incident that has happened and on a few occasions I have found myself running home (drunkenly) in the night because I am sure that I am being followed! (I sound like some paranoid guy now I know!)

Even the clubs are becoming aggressive. When trying to act chivalrously when a very big and tall guy was trying to latch on to some of my female friends, I ended up the one in trouble. All I said to him is "its ok!" as in please let go of my friend and move on. He did let go of my friend (which was great) but then he moved over to me and told me I shouldn't fucking talk to him or he would fucking punch me! Ok wonderful, what do I say to this guy who is towering over me. I decided "its ok" would be enough to make him move on. It didn't, and he continued his aggressiveness! I wasn't going to back down, but I certainly wasn't going to fight this giant. I held my ground until one of his friends decided that it would be a good idea to remove him form the club. (saved!)

As I mentioned earlier, it is not even safe to go and see a football match. I was with 6 of my volunteers trying to get into the world 11 vs Africa 11 peace match. It turns out the 7 of us were the only one trying to get into that particular gate and the other 20 guys (all holding some kind of handkerchief or towel) and all in everyones pockets. we had a phone stolen, that was recovered, but while it was recovered his wallet was stolen. My new journalism volunteer has hr bag knifes as she was surrounded by about 6 guys and they tried to steal her SLR camera. Fortunately she fought them off and ran away. In the end we had to get a police escort into the stadium!

So these are all stories where no one has been hurt but whilst thinking about writing this blog unfortunately someone was hurt. I would love to mention names and nicknames but I will let this person off and allow them to remain anonymous. My friend decided to go out for a run in the evening. Around 8 o clock, so nothing we wouldn't do in the the UK. After a few twist and turns she became a little lost. As she was running past a group of guys on a corner one stood up and smacked her in the face. (not a small punch if you saw the swelling!) After a little scuffle my friend ( very fortunately) managed to get up and run away! We do not really want to think about the motives for this attack (whether theft or something more sinister ) but whatever the case it was brutal and terrible.

Does this mean we can not be free at all in this country? Should we always remain inside and fear walking out? Do we all have to remain in cars to travel small distances? Personally I can not live my life like that and I will try to take little risks here and there if I can. I hope those around me also don't give into the fear and continue to go out and tr and feel free. We all need to be careful for sure but the sad thing is I know this will not be the last time I blog about personal safety!

PS MUM! If your reading this...dont worry too much! I am fine!